LED light fixtures are highly cost effective as they use significantly less power than other technologies such as incandescent. Because of this LED technology offers significant cost savings over the lifetime of the fitting.

Yes, they can. Exterior fittings have a higher ‘Ingress protection Rating’ which makes them more resilient in exterior situations and can absolutely be installed within interior locations.  Please refer to our IP chart for more information on IP ratings: link here

If you live close to the coast, it’s essential to know that salty sea air can be really
tough on outdoor lights. Salt spray doesn’t just affect beachfront homes; it
can travel up to 25 km inland, especially on windy days, and cause damage like rust, peeling paint, or corroded screws over time.  To put this into context, NZ

This kind of
damage is more common in places where there’s:

• Salt in the air (from the ocean)
• Pollution (like from traffic or factories)
• Moisture (rain, dew, or humidity)

To help
people choose the right materials, experts use a rating system called ISO 9223,
which ranks how harsh the environment is, from C1 (very low corrosion) to C5
and CX (very high or extreme). Most coastal homes in New Zealand fall into the C4, C5 or CX range, meaning they need stronger protection.

If you’re not sure whether a light is suitable for your area, ask the supplier or
manufacturer if it’s been tested or rated for your environment. If it’s not listed as suited to an ISO rating, it’s best not to assume its suitability. The manufacturer can give you advice based on your location and help you choose the
right product.

Yes we do! Look out for the double insulated symbol. You will find this located in our product specification sheets and catalogue. Or simply filter by double insulated via our menu and filter on the website.

We offer both cut out & front face diameter measurements in our catalogue, specification sheet & website listings.

Flickering when dimming is usually caused by a mismatch between the LED light and the dimmer switch, even if the light is labelled as "dimmable." Not all
dimmers work with all LED products. Many older dimmers were designed for
incandescent bulbs, and they don’t regulate power the same way LEDs need.

Even with modern dimmers, problems can happen if:

• The dimmer range doesn’t match the LED’s dimming curve.
• The minimum load on the dimmer isn’t met (common with low-wattage LEDs)
• The driver inside the light isn’t compatible with the specific dimmer brand or model.

To fix this:

• Use a dimmer specifically rated for LED use
• Check the manufacturer’s recommended dimmer list (many brands test and publish these)
• Try adjusting the trim settings on the dimmer, if available, to reduce flicker at low brightness.

If in doubt, talk to the supplier or installer about the best dimmer-light combo for smooth, flicker-free performance.

Here at Eurotech Lighting, we test a range of popular NZ used dimmers against all our fittings.  To see our results and
recommendations, review the dimmer compatibility list located under downlights on each product lighting.

Wattage doesn’t always mean brighter.  Wattage relates to the power consumption of a fitting and ultimately how much money it will cost to run.  Lumens measure the amount of visible light emitted by a light source. The higher the number of lumens, the brighter the
light appears to the human eye.

When searching for a bright fitting, you're looking for high lumens. If you want to assess whether your light is effective at producing light versus its power consumption, refer to the light efficacy phonetically pronounced "EFF-I-KAH-SEE" of the fitting. This is a simple calculation of lumens divided by wattage.  The higher the value, the better. 

To work out how much light a room needs, start by looking at three key things: the room’s size (in square metres), its purpose or activity type (e.g. relaxing vs. working), and the colour of surfaces (bright walls reflect more light, dark ones absorb it). Lighting is measured in lux, which is the amount of light per square metre. As a general rule of thumb:

• Bedrooms and lounges need 100–200 lux
• Kitchens and bathrooms need 300–500 lux
• Offices and workspaces need 500+ lux

To calculate the total lumens required, multiply your target lux level by the room’s area (in m²). For example, a 10 m² kitchen needs 400 lux = 4,000 lumens total. You can spread this over multiple fittings. For a full guide including charts and a lux vs lumen explanation, see our blog: How Much Light is Enough?

Colour temperature is a measure of the "white” colour spectrum.  It refers to the perceived warmth or coolness of light and is measured in Kelvins (K).

The lower the value, the warmer or more yellow the light appears; the higher the value, the whiter the light appearance will be.  As a rule, the following offers some guidance for where to use what Kelvin temperature, though ultimately it comes down to personal preference. Below are common uses for different colour temperatures here in New Zealand.

- 2700Kelvins (similar light colouring to a 100-watt incandescent light bulb)

- 2700-3500 – generally used for residential interiors.  This colour temperature range offers a cosy illumination.

-4000 – 5000K – exterior and commercial environments.  This colour temperature range offers a whiter illumination, helping keep you awake, and the light more closely mimics exterior sunlight vibes.

CRI stands for Color Rendering Index, a rating index from 0 to 100 that shows how accurately a light source reveals colours compared to natural daylight. A CRI of 90 or above means objects look vibrant and true to life, which is especially important in places like kitchens, retail shops, design studios, or anywhere you care about seeing colours clearly. A high CRI light helps your skin look natural, food appear appetising, and paint shades look exactly as intended. For more details and real-life examples, check out our blog on CRI: “CRI – What is it and why is it important?"